🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.